Travel, 50+, Bulgaria

A lot of Europeans to-day got to know Bulgaria as a place for cheap alcohol, scorching hot beaches and a weirdly nostalgic tourist diarrhea. The "wealthy" Europe truly sent their best around the change of the millennium. Plenty of middle aged or older women got a much more personal dip of Bulgarian culture. Possibly a souvenir that has recently begun to hit anywhere from maturity to midlife crisis. As previously the call of communism, the way of the gigolo has now lost its color and shine. Much like the hair of the boys who profess it. Covid lockdown might well have been the merciful strike of death.

Besides some ethanol induced legends, I've heard stories from people who visited during communism. How "...the old lady at the door of the public toilet gave you only two pieces of toilet paper for the whole process no matter what process we're talking about." Probably expecting you to "go Russian" (=specific wiping method) on number two... There are stories, largely not so pleasant ones, from the neighbors. Often referencing Turkey and the Ottoman era and what it left behind... What I heard was that Bulgaria has a rich history. I looked into it and packed my bags shortly after.

While Bulgaria was once more accessible, nearly the only readily available route in leads through the capital. As a consequence, I've ended up using it as the entry point more than is ideal. Enough many times to get curious about the yellow taxi instead of the recommended Yellow! taxi. So, as one might expect, I ended up following a junkie looking dude who poached me from the terminal doors that one time. This guy led me to his outdated taxi and I told where to go. Everything started as usual these days. The guy had no idea where the address is, so he wrote it on his mobile and off we went.

This is where the ride turned different. The driver produced a beer for himself (didn't even offer to me, that b@stard!) and started sipping. A slice here, another there. Somehow, it did not influence his driving. We even arrived to the destination "on time" (aka no "sightseeing" through every available district) and not even a single curb peeling for his tires! For this magnificent achievement, he pronounced a price high enough to give heart palpitation for the healthy. Only around four times higher than what it's supposed to be. Having been there before, I was armed with knowledge. I did some E.Honda level slapping, verbally. He responded with sad Dhalsim stretches, trying to extend the "truth" about pricing. A little bit of headbutt to slap storm (still verbal) more and the skinny junkie dude forgot he spoke English. The driver folded via a phone translation and I paid basically what I wanted. Do not try this at home or, especially, abroad. Also, avoid the unofficial taxis at Sofia airport unless you have a fourfold wad of cash to throw around for no good reason.

It is understandable that the Bulgarians would have a go at making a little extra cash. The regular people are not exactly experiencing the prime of contemporary life. In fact, the pay is low and expectations grim. The supply of faith seemed low everywhere.

One of the most absolute "dead inside"-moments I've witnessed anywhere ever was in a park near some, let's say, children's section. There was a group of mothers having a little sit down with their toddlers. One of the mothers pulled out a cigarette and lit up. As we know, this is bad in itself (especially near children). However, it was not even for her. It was for her toddler (on estimate 2-3 years old). The kid vacuumed toxins in like a pro. Leaned back, even. Little lungs pumping like he did at least a pack a day. What did the other mothers do? Nothing. They did not even give it a blink.

Bulgaria has a lot of untapped potential. I might even go as far as say it's a "hidden gem" of the Balkans. Just, they have walled themselves inside a self-made room of misery. Corruption being one of the main perpetrators. Lack of will to push forwards a new brighter Bulgaria for everyone from those with power being another. From the point of view of the traveler, however, it's currently a goldmine of romantic decadence. Multiple eras of history over. It's still raw, it's still real, which is a rare experience in Europe. Changing their currency to euro (1.1.-26) might begin to change things. It might begin to close the sweet spot for the aforementioned. If you're into it, go sooner than later.

The judgment:
Bulgaria is inexpensive (at least for now). If only they were more accessible, I'd have visited before and would visit more often. There's plenty to see and experience for any history buff and the nature is surprisingly present almost everywhere (sea, mountains and in between). The pictures above are from some of the better "bases" for your exploration of some of the regions. All of them relatively easy to access from abroad compared to most other places in the country. Talking about pictures, a photographer who likes things a little dilapidated, darker themes and such, will weep out of joy as they rummage through the offerings of the nation. The food has always been pretty good (I did not eat at the infamous resort towns like Sunny Beach or Golden Sands) and inexpensive. There are a few kick-ass bands. Transportation is better than the reputation... I've liked traveling through Bulgaria, so far. If you have difficulties walking or poor health, it is not a place for you.

Would I go again? Yes. I have half the country left to see and the numismatics folks thirst for those euros fresh out of mint.