Travel, 50+, Cabo Verde

Cabo Verde is one of those a little bit forgotten African countries. Even though it was notably the first permanent European settlements in the tropics (which should have cemented it in the history books, somehow). A lot of the hardcore travelers I have met have set it as their last African or overall country to visit. For me, as some of us here know, it was the first. My experience of the Black Continent begun with a black out. All meanings of the word.

Funnily enough, a surprisingly high amount of gatekeepers arrived to aaaakkkkcchuuuaallly point out that I had "not really visited Africa". I asked: How so? These people explained that visiting islands is not really visiting a continent in this sense. Okay. I inquired whether a person has truly visited Europe after visiting the UK or whether a person who has visited Japan has really visited Asia (which they took personally, for some reason). I continued to ask whether you can even visit Oceania at all. Whether visiting Ceuta and/or Melilla is visiting the "real Africa". I asked a solid series of stupid hard questions like a little child and these people were nasal screeching while clawing the air. Probably digging for answers to beat a mental gymnastics competition. Anyway, got to love the gatekeeping elitist besserwisser breed. ;) Or?

The lights returned sometime before the first full day. Our little entourage got to explore the island and the first place to go was the old capital and the UNESCO world heritage site. The only one of its kind in the country (although, there are a few as "tentative" sites). This is very close to the capital the roads to which are in good condition (better than the road between Charleroi and their airport, for sure) and you are probably the only visitor or one of the very few. Our little group started with the fort which had the staff of two, slaving away with their eyes glued to smart phone sized soap operas. The tickets were inexpensive, the souvenir selection was poor, but the views were grand. A mmmbop later (who remembers this one?), we were sliding down the hill to explore the ... "city".

While the old capital is tiny, some might say micro, the new capital is not much larger, either. It does extend to somewhat of a favela here, another one there, but the thing you actually want to see is confined. It was not a peak tourist season and it is not the most touristy place in the country (which might well be Sal, as rumors go). I was half-expecting to be the sight myself, sticking out worse than a sore thumb with my blinding white (or, on a bad day, boiled lobster red) skin and a semi-bohemian, demi-hobo look opted for this trip. I was pleasantly surprised as close to no one paid no heed. Overall, everyone and their lost uncle treated me just like another human being. Much appreciated.

I wandered around like a vagabond and Praia was all beach. I popped into the museum to note the main event was a man fixing the wooden stairs. I ate well at the restaurant named after the national dish and it was chill like surfing I could have been doing, but did not. And then it happened... The Germans arrived! A full boatload of Germans, and a single Dane. How he survived the cruise, I will never know.

The locals got a little lift on the leg and all of the sudden, touristy kiosks, drawing artists, card and map sales people appeared out of nowhere. The whole main district was humming with "ja, ja, ja, ich, ach, waaas?" which was only occasionally broken by a "Mine Euro!"-shriek as the prices were revealed (not clearly stated, which made them old Germans think stuff is free). Talking about money, the capital seemed to have a chronic lack of local money. They were more than eagerly accepting euros and the local cash was always out or "out". Even banks refused to give out cash. Especially smaller change was close to non-existent. What gives Cabo Verde?

The judgment:
I wanted for my first experience of Africa to be as smooth and hassle-free as possible. Cabo Verde more than delivered. Everywhere was chill and felt safe in whichever way. No risk from wildlife, diseases or people. They didn't even try to force-sell me stuff and actually took a no thanks without a struggle. The rumor goes there are some edgy neighborhoods here, some hairy ones there, but I cannot say I saw any signs of that.

The food was good and I never had even an inkling of a Delhi Belly. I tasted different things each time and it was always good in taste and outcome. The prices were acceptable everywhere even if you weren't exactly paying in peanuts and small potatoes. This might have to do with the fact that a whole lot needs to be imported. Linguistically, the locals speak their version of Portuguese and French is very prevalent. Most people speak at least rudimentary English and some people can exchange a word or two in German. Now... This is where my exit steps in. I was going through security at the airport. The guy waved me aside for a little touchy-feely. He said "Hello, good morning" and then started the process. While rubbing at my legs, he went "Bombardo, bombardo." I imagine my mouth went like those comedy central/adult swim cartoon droopy-lip mouths of confusion. What he meant was to compliment my beard (which in portuguese shold be "barba", while good is "bom"). With long wires, I got it before the blood had the chance to escape my head.

So, yeah... I can recommend Cabo Verde or, at least, the island of Santiago as an easy "dip your toes" trip to Africa. It can work as a decent alternative for something like Canary islands or similar. It's good for relaxation, sun, beaches and you can try surfing (although I was advised there are better islands for that). It's suitable for old and young. While there is supposed to be bus traffic (I never saw any), taxis or a car/minibus ride arranged from/by your place of stay is recommended. Common places to visit (from the capital) seem to be Cidade Velha (takes maybe a couple of hours or so, unless you want to linger) and Tarrafal (a full day trip). While the capital is sort of a local party town with a unique music scene, nothing there says big or city. Everywhere else is smaller. It's not a shopping place, either. Just chill and enjoy life in the moment.

Would I go again? No. While the place and the people were great, I have seen everything I wanted to see.