EOSC - Breaking Waves

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Last updated: February 26, 2023

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First submitted	February 26, 2023
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Hint	Answer
open ocean	h > 1/7 L
as waves approach shore	H/d roughly 3/4
in what order?	whichever is first
breaker	where waves start to break
types - 1	spilling
2	plunging
3	surging
determined by ...	slope of floor
1	flat bottom
energy released ...	slowly
	over wide area
hazard level	not
2	steep bottom
energy released ...	suddenly
	can be violent
hazard level	can be
	have experience

Hint	Answer
3	very steep bottom
energy released ...	very fast
	limited area
	don't break
hazard level	deadly
wave refraction	waves bend
	waves approach at angle
the part that gets to shallow water first ...	slows down
causes	shore straightening
bc waves ...	converge on headlands
	diverge in bays
longshore drift	net movement of sand
longshore current	what moves sand
longshore transport - water ...	approaches at angle
	runs straight down
so sand moves ...	parallel to beach

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