Statistics for EOSC - Breaking Waves

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Hint	Answer	% Correct
longshore transport - water ...	approaches at angle	0%
hazard level	can be	0%
	can be violent	0%
bc waves ...	converge on headlands	0%
hazard level	deadly	0%
	diverge in bays	0%
	don't break	0%
1	flat bottom	0%
	have experience	0%
as waves approach shore	H/d roughly 3/4	0%
open ocean	h > 1/7 L	0%
	limited area	0%
longshore drift	net movement of sand	0%
hazard level	not	0%
	over wide area	0%
so sand moves ...	parallel to beach	0%
2	plunging	0%
	runs straight down	0%
causes	shore straightening	0%
determined by ...	slope of floor	0%
energy released ...	slowly	0%
the part that gets to shallow water first ...	slows down	0%
types - 1	spilling	0%
2	steep bottom	0%
energy released ...	suddenly	0%
3	surging	0%
energy released ...	very fast	0%
3	very steep bottom	0%
	waves approach at angle	0%
wave refraction	waves bend	0%
longshore current	what moves sand	0%
breaker	where waves start to break	0%
in what order?	whichever is first	0%