EOSC - Understanding Waves

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Last updated: February 10, 2023

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First submitted	February 10, 2023
Times taken	5
Average score	42.4%
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Hint	Answer
wave	propagation of energy through a medium
the medium ...	doesn't move much
what generates a wave?	forces
wavelength (L or lambda)	distance for one full cycle
unit	m
crest	highest point
trough	lowest point
height (H)	vertical distance from crest to trough
unit	m
amplitude (a)	half the height
unit	m
steepness	height/wavelength
period (T)	time for one cycle
unit	s
frequency (f)	cycles per second
unit	Hz
celerity (c)	wavelength/period
aka	speed
unit	m/s
ocean medium	water
the particles ...	rotate in place
the force creates a ...	disturbance in the fluid level
restoring force	tries to flatten it out
	overshoots
ocean waves are generated by ...	wind
called ...	wind waves
wavelength	60-150 m
	change in atmospheric pressure
called ...	seiche
wavelength	1 km
	geological events
like ...	earthquake
	landslide
	volcano
called ...	tsunami
wavelength	200 km
	gravitational pull
called ...	tides
wavelength	20000 km
which is ...	half of earth's circumference
small wave	< 1.7 cm
called ...	capillary waves
restoring force	surface tension

Hint	Answer
from ...	hydrogen bonds
larger waves	> 1.7 cm
called ...	surface gravity waves
restoring force	gravity
water particles move	backwards then upward
as the ... passes	trough
and ...	forward then downward
as the ... passes	crest
in open water, orbital motion ...	decreases with depth
wave base	bottom of the wave
where ...	there is no motion
roughly	half of the wavelength
deep water waves	depth more than 1/2 wavelength
	does not interact with ocean floor
waves	travel in groups
by ...	wavelength
because speed depends on ...	wavelength only
speed is ...	1.25 sqrt(L)
	1.56 T
shallow water waves	depth is less than 1/20 wavelength
	feel the bottom
so orbits become ...	ellipses
by ...	friction
intermediate water waves	between them
meaning ...	depth more than 1/20
	less than 1/2
speed depends on ...	depth only
speed is ...	3.1 sqrt(d)
swell	long wavelengths
chaotic sea	many wavelengths
as a wave approaches the shore	turn to shallow waves
	decrease speed
	decrease wavelength
	increase wave height
	increase steepness
	T is constant
	orbitals flatten
	KE is lost to friction
breaker	waves start to break
	crest is faster than wave
	crest falls forward
when ...	H/depth is 3/4

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